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| 3dprinting:ender3pro [2023/11/21 02:05] – jon | 3dprinting:ender3pro [2025/04/01 15:14] (current) – jon |
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| ====== Ender 3 Pro ====== | ====== Ender 3 Pro/ Ender 3 v2 ====== |
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| As part of MicroCenter's coupon deal in exchange for your personal data (fake email and phone #), I picked this printer up for $100 plus tax. The assembly was not bad once you understood the meaning behind the order of operations. What you do initially in the beginning of the setup ultimately effects the whole build, so a lot of caution is needed to ensure the frame is square, and that you're assembling it on a level, and flat surface. | As part of MicroCenter's coupon deal in exchange for your personal data (fake email and phone #), I picked this printer up for $100 plus tax. The assembly was not bad once you understood the meaning behind the order of operations. What you do initially in the beginning of the setup ultimately effects the whole build, so a lot of caution is needed to ensure the frame is square, and that you're assembling it on a level, and flat surface. |
| {{ :3dprinting:setup_and_calibration_1_.pdf |}} | {{ :3dprinting:setup_and_calibration_1_.pdf |}} |
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| - https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/ | * https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/ |
| - https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-ringing-3d-print-ghosting/ | * https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-ringing-3d-print-ghosting/ |
| - https://all3dp.com/2/xyz-calibration-cube-troubleshooting-3d-printer/ | * https://all3dp.com/2/xyz-calibration-cube-troubleshooting-3d-printer/ |
| - https://all3dp.com/2/benchy-troubleshooting-guide/ | * https://all3dp.com/2/benchy-troubleshooting-guide/ |
| - https://all3dp.com/2/adjust-ender-3-v2-z-offset/ | * https://all3dp.com/2/adjust-ender-3-v2-z-offset/ |
| - https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-test-print-the-best-models-to-challenge-your-ender-3/ | * https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-test-print-the-best-models-to-challenge-your-ender-3/ |
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| === Using Cura for templates === | === Using Cura for templates === |
| After installing the board, make sure to reload the latest firmware for the board right away. The one issue I ran into was hitting a thermal runaway (E1) error after getting the board installed, and firmware updated. Turns out, I was printing for PLA+ which operates at a higher temperature than PLA, and the calibration for temperature was off. It would climb to 205 degrees, and then error out. Inside Configuration → Advanced → Temperature, there is a PID Autotune for both the bed and nozzle. What you do is set the temperature desired to calibrate to based on your most frequent temp, and then it will automatically adjust the P, I, and D portions of the temp control/monitoring so that it is correctly reporting back to the system. | After installing the board, make sure to reload the latest firmware for the board right away. The one issue I ran into was hitting a thermal runaway (E1) error after getting the board installed, and firmware updated. Turns out, I was printing for PLA+ which operates at a higher temperature than PLA, and the calibration for temperature was off. It would climb to 205 degrees, and then error out. Inside Configuration → Advanced → Temperature, there is a PID Autotune for both the bed and nozzle. What you do is set the temperature desired to calibrate to based on your most frequent temp, and then it will automatically adjust the P, I, and D portions of the temp control/monitoring so that it is correctly reporting back to the system. |
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| https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-thermal-runaway/ | * https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-thermal-runaway/ |
| | * https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19733/heating-failed-e1-after-upgrade-to-4-2-7-motherboard-ender-3-pro |
| | * https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-pid-tuning/ |
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| ==== Auto Leveling Sensor ==== | ==== Auto Leveling Sensor ==== |
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| ==== Printed Accessories ==== | ==== Printed Accessories ==== |
| https://www.instructables.com/Ender-3-Pro-Initial-Setup-and-Recommended-Prints/ | * https://www.instructables.com/Ender-3-Pro-Initial-Setup-and-Recommended-Prints/ |
| https://red-dot-geek.com/ender-3-upgrades-to-print/ | * https://red-dot-geek.com/ender-3-upgrades-to-print/ |
| | * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3147743 |
| | * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018 |
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| | ===== Calibrations ===== |
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| | https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/s/q2FU6IXtI3 |
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| | Part 1 - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fxALEbcOqGYnBigPfioxTBZBQMxrY56HyCoimZ5VTf8 |
| | Part 2 - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YG6HLjqtQQwEa0YvdKQx-v0PVRt5OBRjw5jKOw5HK4s |
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| | Teaching Tech is the backbone for most of this - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html |
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| | MRISCOC overview - https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Calibration-Guides |
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| | A nice video overview from someone grabbing their faves from TT and Ellis - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSCwTtJdzo0 |
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| | ==== Linear Advance/Pressure Advance ==== |
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| | Perhaps the biggest thing you need to calibrate for is Linear Advance/Pressure Advance. In Marlin, this needs to be enabled. For Enders, this means, a custom compile. If using mriscoc firmware, this also needs a special version that's not on the main release page, but thankfully it is pre-compiled. |
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| | MRISCOC docs - https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Linear-Advance-(LA) |
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| | This is covered in the Ellis3dp and Teaching Tech guides, but it will allow you to not have to spend as much time fudging with the other settings to get a print dialed in. |
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| | Perfect first layer prints - https://www.printables.com/model/213992-perfect-1st-layers-ender-3-v2-ender-3s1-ender-3s1-/comments |
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| | ==== Retraction Tests ==== |
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| | Check against retraction speed and distance - https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes/wiki/Retract-Tower |
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| ===== Issues to address ===== | ===== Issues to address ===== |
| By far, the most common issue with these models are the warped beds. If you don't want to splurge for an Auto Bed Level, the next best option is to find a straight edge, and put it down on the bed, and put some aluminum tape on the spots where there is a gap when shining a light on it. | By far, the most common issue with these models are the warped beds. If you don't want to splurge for an Auto Bed Level, the next best option is to find a straight edge, and put it down on the bed, and put some aluminum tape on the spots where there is a gap when shining a light on it. |
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| Unsorted Links | ===== Unsorted Links ===== |
| - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7LK28tL028 | |
| - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWBJ-H0To9U | * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7LK28tL028 |
| - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3147743 | * https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWBJ-H0To9U |
| - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3235018 | * https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-v2-retraction-settings-all-you-need-to-know/ |
| | * https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes |
| | * https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-troubleshoot-an-xyz-calibration-cube/ |
| | * https://all3dp.com/2/octoprint-bed-level-visualizer-guide/ |
| | * https://community.octoprint.org/t/put-tape-on-the-5v-pin-why-and-how/13574 |
| | * https://print.piffa.net/ |